The label will probably have yellowed somewhat with age, but
a nice new-looking piece of whitish-grey speckled paper with
crisp, clear writing does not neccessarily indicate a forgery.
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Model Verification
You will want to make sure that the instrument you are looking
at is the model that it is advertized as, becuase those little model
numbers do a lot to the price of the instrument. The higher numbers
have more fancy decorative features in general, but do not necessarily
sound any better than "lower end" models. I personally would
be hard pressed to trade my A0 for an A4. So anyway, don't pay A4
prices for an A0!!
The information following is not official as
there are so many instruments that break the rules. However,
there are a few key identifiers:
A or F model
This one is easy. If it has a curlycue (bluegrass style) on the
bass side of the neck next to the fingerboard, it is an F model
mandolin. An A model mandolin is symmetrical, and teardrop
shaped.
Bridge
Prior to 1921, the only bridges made for Gibson mandolins (A or
F) were made from a single piece of wood, with no adjusting
screws. If the instrument has an adjustible bridge and a date
prior to 1921, it is most likely a replacement bridge. While the
bridge may even come from the Gibson factory, it still is not
original to the instrument.
Binding
The term "binding" refers to the white band that surrounds the
face, back, neck, or headstock of the mandolin. More binding =
high model number. The only completely unbound Gibson was the
Ajr model, a stripped-down (in decoration) version of the classic
A model. Prices should range relative to each other in this
fashion:
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Models and Descriptions
Ajr
Plain model, with no decoration at all, brown
finish. Plain tailpiece cover. Shaped hardshell or
canvas case.
A or A0
Brown or black finish, binding only on face and in
soundhole. One ring of purfling around the
soundhole. Pickguard that is pinned into the
fingerboard and bridge, clamped to the side of the
instrument. Pearl dots on fingerboard. Dark stained
maple (not the best "wavy" or "curly" cut) back and
sides. "The Gibson" stamped on tailpiece cover.
Shaped hardshell case.
A1
Similar to A0, but can be blonde or reddish color,
has some features (double purfling on soundhole) of
an A2. "The Gibson" stamped on tailpiece cover.
Shaped hardshell case.
A2
Brown, black, blonde, or red finish all possible.
Binding on front, back, soundhole, fingerboard;
"The Gibson" inlaid into the headstock, closer
grained (most of the time!) spruce top then a model
A0; pickguard that is pinned into the fingerboard,
bridge, and clamps to the sides of the instrument.
Double ring of purfling around the soundhole. Pearl
dots on the fingerboard. Dark stained maple back
sides (still not usually a "Wavy" or "curly" cut).
"The Gibson" stamped on tailpiece cover. Headpiece
veneered in black on the front. Black inlay along
the "keel" in the back of the neck. Shaped
hardshell case.
A3
Nearly identical to an A2, but usually a
refrigerator-White top (sometimes blonde); and a
fleur-de-lis in the headstock under "The Gibson".
Bound on top, back, sides, around the fingerboard.
These are somewhat rare. Wood quality improving
(tighter grain, more "nice looking" features).
Mahogany sides and back. Shaped and bound
fingerboard extension (the little teeny frets that
extend over the soundhole). "The Gibson" hand-
etched into the tailpiece cover (though sometimes
stamped). Headstock veneered in black front back.
Black inlay along the "keel" in the back of the
neck. Shaped hardshell case with quilted felt cover
for laying over the face of the instrument.
A4
The top of the line. Red sunburst finish (red in
the middle fading to black or brown at the sides),
fleur-de-lis under "The Gibson"; (sometimes)
decorated tuner buttons (a dotted "+" in each
button). Thick white ring between the double
purfling around the soundhole. Can have "Snakehead
peghead" (see below). Shaped fingerboard extension.
Black veneered headstock, front back. Black
inlay along the "keel" in the back of the neck.
Lots of polish in the finish. Shaped hardshell
case with quilted felt cover for laying over the
face of the instrument.
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Some Features That Any Model May Have:
"Snakehead" peghead:
This is a peghead that tapers from small to
large from the top, rather than the other way around.
Conventional wisdom is that these somehow sound better, and
prices go up accordingly. These are most commonly found on
an A4, but can exist on model numbers A1-A3 (I have never
seen an A0 or Ajr with a snakehead, but they could exist).
Longer neck clear of the body:
The standard Gibson A model has 9
frets entirely clear of the body, but some models (usually
snakeheads) have 12 frets clear of the body. A longer
neck mandolin is desireable if bass sound is favored, or if you
play often in high positions and need easy access to the high frets.
Neck Shape:
The standard Gibson A models had a "keel" shaped
neck, similar to the letter "v". The "keel" is rounded, but
the modern "U" shaped neck is considerably rounder. Anyway,
some Gibsons have rounded necks.
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Final Note
I have been trying to get some help on this guide for some time, with
little response from the Net community. If you could help edit this info
in any way, point out gross errors, or even write up some detail for F
model mandolins, please send me mail
here. I would also really
love to add a serial number chart to this page!
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